Mark Twain called Benares 'older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together'. Called Kashi in the Vedas and more recently Varanasi, Benares is one of the oldest cities in the world. The temple, and the king's honorofic have Kashi in their name (Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Kashi Naresh); the university, the saree, and the paan have Banaras in it (Benares Hindu University, Banarasi sarees, Banarasi paan). Have not come across anything with Varanasi in it except the airport and the train station. Personally I prefer Benares; that was what I was calling it while planning my travel, while there and upon my return when talking about my trip.
I was in Benares for 5 days in the December of 2021 when there was a cold wave. It was a solo trip. I limited my interactions with the locals and other travelers. My first trip to Benares was 8 years back in the November of 2013 for a friend's wedding but I had not explored thoroughly at that time. I had been longing to go back. It took a while, but I finally made it and with clarity on where to stay, how to spend my time, what to eat, where to eat, what to shop for and where to shop.
I stayed at Ganges View on Assi ghat and moved out of the ghats on just one day - when I went to Sarnath and visited local temples within the city. My most memorable moments have undoubtedly been on the ghats.
I chose Ganges View as it is right on Assi ghat where morning and evening aarti's happen. My room was on the top floor with a beautiful view. I spent numerous hours sipping tea and reading with the Ganges in the backdrop and hearing the music played on the ghat; something was always on at all times of the day.
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| Hotel Ganges View, just outside my room |
Have divided this post into sections - the ghats, mosque on the ghats, Ram Nagar fort, the famed aarti, the temple, other places to explore in Benares and finally the sarees. My day trip to Sarnath and the food of Benares will be covered in separate posts as this was getting too long.
Ghats
On my first evening post the aarti at Assi I walked along the ghats towards Dashashwamedh. What should have been a 30 minute walk ended up being almost an hour long leisurely stroll. It felt surreal finally being at the ghats after years of yearning. I was taking in the structure of each ghat; watching the Ganges, the full moon sky, the boats, the ferries passing by, the throngs of people sitting around, walking, praying, bathing, laughing and chatting. After spending some time in Gowdolia near Dashashwamedh, I walked back to Assi. This was late at night. There was silence around. Most ghats were deserted; some dimly lit. I could hear the sound of the Ganges clearly. The 'Rain on Leaves' soundscape on my calm app which I usually listen to to fall asleep was no match for this sound. It quieted my mind and tugged at my heart. Felt a strong connection to the place - like something familiar that is already a part of you. Most importantly, I felt safe - not once did I have to quicken my pace or look over my shoulder. Reached my hotel at peace and exhausted to my bones. Have never slept better.
Every night I would come back to the hotel and vow to not walk so much that I tire myself out completely. However the next morning the ghats would lure me again and I would keep walking up and down, completely hypnotized and enchanted.
On my last day, I walked till Chet Singh ghat and sat immersing my feet in the river leaving my fingers to play with the water. Part of me did not want to leave the ghats, the sight of the Ganges, the boats. The walk back to Assi was with a heavy heart. The ghats are a part of me now; my happy place. Whenever I want to feel calmer, I just close my eyes and picture myself walking on the ghats at night. The sound of the waves of the Ganges is as clear now as it was on my first day there.
I've put the ghats in the order you will encounter them while walking / taking a boat ride from Assi towards Panchaganga; not all 88 ghats - just the ones that caught my attention.
Assi is the southernmost ghat in Benares. Here aarti's happen every morning and evening unlike Dashashwamedh where aarti's happen in the evening only. Also, it is much less crowded here.
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Assi Ghat
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I found the Ganga Mahal Ghat the prettiest of them all. This was built as an extension to Assi. It was initially a palace which is now a design studio for Banarasi weaves.
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Ganga Mahal Ghat
I liked the tricolor stairs of Janki ghat.  | Janki Ghat
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Anandamyi Maa was a saint born in present-day Bangladesh. She was born as Nirmala Sundari but her devotees called her Anandmayi Maa as she radiated joy. This ghat is dedicated to her and has captivating wall art.Maa Anandmayi Ghat; loved the wall art here
 | Prabhu Ghat
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| Raja Chet Singh, although the illegitimate son of the king of Benares, managed to get on the throne. The British Governor, Warren Hastings did not accept him as the official ruler. When Chet Singh refused to provide his army to the East India Company, Hastings led a battle in which Chet Singh was defeated. |
 | Chet Singh Ghat
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This is where austere ascetics known as Dandi panths sit. I wanted to interact with them but decided otherwise as I was traveling alone and did not feel comfortable.
Kedar ghat has the Kedareshwar temple right on the ghat which can be accessed by climbing the ghat stairs. The temple is believed to be a replica of the Kedarnath temple in Uttarakhand. Hence it is thronged by devotees and the second most crowded ghat after Dashashwamedh. The ghat itself is painted bright red and white which makes it stand out.
 | Kedar Ghat
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This was built by King Digpatiya in the 18th century with stone and bricks reflecting Bengali art. It was part of lower Chausatti ghat till the 20th century. The fortress on top of the ghat is now called Kashi Ashram.  |
Digpatiya Ghat
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This ghat is named after the Darbhanga royal family. The two centuries old palace is now a luxury hotel - BrijRama Palace; which offers unparalleled views of the ghats. It is located right next to Dahsashwamedh ghat which makes it a very convenient place to stay. The prices had sky rocketed while I was planning my trip which did not make fiscal sense for me. I did plan to come here for a meal so that I could explore the palace from inside but that did not work out either. Next time!
Since I had seen a lot of pics of the palace interior it was more of an obsession for me and I ended up spending quite a lot of time here.
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Darbhanga Ghat; Brijrama Palace
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| Darbhanga Ghat; Brijrama Palace |
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| Darbhanga Ghat; Brijrama Palace |
The name Dashashwamedh (ten horses) comes from a mythological story that Lord Brahma sacrificed ten horses here during a yagna. The current ghat has been rebuilt by Maratha Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. She also rebuilt Kashi Vishwanath Mandir and a figurine is installed within the temple complex to honor her contribution in constructing and restoring Hindu temples. She built temples across India from Srinagar in the North to Rameswaram in the South and many places in between like Haridwar, Mahabaleshwar, Indore, Gokarna,
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Dashashwamedh Ghat
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Harishchandra and Manikarnika are ghats where cremation is performed. On Manikarnika ghat, it is said that 24x7 there are burning pyres. I was walking through the narrow lanes in the area after visiting the Kashi Vishwanath temple. I could spot small autos, hand cart vendors carrying pyre wood to the ghat steps. Another unusual sight was seeing dead bodies being ferried in the small lanes as normally as someone would transport milk or water to the shops there.
It is said that the soul attains moksha - freedom from the cycle of birth and death - if one dies and is cremated here. A lot of people come to Benares hoping to die here. There are many guesthouses specifically for these people who either have a terminal illness or are old enough that they reasonably expect to die in the near future.
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| log woods for the pyre @ Manikarnika |
The temple you see on the right with a 9 degree tilt, which is more than double of the 4 degree tile of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, is the Ratneshwar temple also called as Kashi Karvat as it leans to one side. The inner sanctum of this temple is underwater for most months of the year.
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| Manikarnika Ghat |
I spotted a lot of folks bathing in the Ganges on this ghat. This ghat has religious significance due to the submerged Shiva temple visible in the above pic.  |
Scindia Ghat
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Bhonsale ghat was built in the 17th century by the Maratha ruling family of Nagpur. The distinctive feature are the small artistic windows. It also has three heritage temples - Lakshminarayan, Yameshwar and Yamaditya. I would it a bit similar to the Ganga Mahal Ghat next to Assi. The royal family was involved in a controversy over the sale of the ghat in 2013.
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| Bhonsale Ghat |
Panchaganga ghat marks the confluence of five rivers - Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Kirana and Dhupapapa. Out of these five, only the Ganges is visible today. This ghat has a lot of history - served as a teaching ground for the guru of Saint Kabir and it is believed that Tulsidas composed Vinay-Patrika here on this ghat.
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| A temple on Panchaganga Ghat |
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| Panchaganga Ghat; on full moon nights; lamps are lit in the wicker basket and hoisted on the pole |
I did a boat ride from Manikarnika ghat just for the experience. We stopped at Panchaganga ghat to visit Alamgir mosque. Post that my boats man dropped me at Dashashwamedh ghat. I preferred walking along the ghats to the boat ride. Being on a boat felt very restrictive to me. I did not feel that sense of connection that I felt while on the ghats. I'm not getting on a boat again unless there is no other option.
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| In a boat along the ghats |
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| The ghats; unfiltered |
Alamgir Mosque
This mosque is perched on the Panchaganga ghat and offers lovely views of the ghats. If you are coming via ferry, like I did, you will have to climb multiple flights of stairs to get to this mosque. It was built by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th century and named after his own honorific "Alamgir". Alamgir is an Arabic word which means 'Conqueror of the World'. He built the mosque on the ruins of a Hindu Vishnu temple. He destroyed many Hindu temples in the area including Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
The view from the top is the exact image that comes to my mind when I think of Benares. Would recommend coming here just for the view.
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| View of the ghats from the mosque |
The architecture of the mosque is a blend of Hindu and Mughal style. However, the interior is simple.
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| Alamgir mosque; perched on Panchaganga Ghat |
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| Atop the mosque |
Ram Nagar Fort
This fort is on the eastern banks of the Ganges and can currently be accessed by road only. It was earlier accessible via boat as well however, that entry point has been discontinued. It is a good one hour journey considering the chaotic traffic within the city. I would recommend taking the time to visit this place. It houses a museum as well, however the highlight of this place is the outer façade which can be viewed from a narrow passageway leading to the Ganges.
The fort was built by Raja Balwant Singh in Mughal style using cream sandstone in the 17th century. Since Benares still has the position of a king - Kashi Naresh; the person occupying that position lives here. I would love to retire as Kashi Naresh and live in this magnificent palace with balconies facing the Ganges.
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| A façade of Ram Nagar fort |
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| Exterior of Ram Nagar Fort |
Ganga Aarti
Have not missed a single evening aarti - attended 3 at Assi and 1 at Dashashwamedh. However, could not step down for a single morning aarti; I'm not a morning person and the ongoing cold wave made it almost impossible to get out of bed. Thanks to my hotel's proximity to the ghats; I did hear the aarti on the mornings my alarm managed to elicit a response from me.
The aarti is carried out facing the river by young priests in robes. Every action is performed in sync by the priests and the visual outcome is nothing short of a theatrical performance. It begins and ends with blowing of the conch which produces vibrations that energize you. The 30 minute performance is divided into multiple acts. In each act they begin with facing the Ganges and rotate 90 degrees to perform the same action in all directions till they are back facing the Ganges. The next act then begins.
At Assi Ghaat
What I really liked about the aarti at Assi ghat is the accessibility. There are exponentially fewer folks here than at Dashashwamedh ghat. Which means you are closer to the aarti and feel more involved in the aarti. Also, at the end you get to take the holy flame - cup your hands over the flame and then touch your forehead to receive blessings.
The aarti here happens at two places simultaneously; both of which are adjacent to each other.
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The holy flame of the snake hooded aartiis kept open to the public post the event
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At Dashashwamedh Ghaat
It gets extremely crowded here so most folks arrive really early to get a good spot. I came in around 30 minutes early to get a seat in one of the boats facing the aarti area. I enjoyed the aarti while sipping on hot lemon tea.
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| 9 umbrellas; 7 priests in parallel as opposed to 7 and 5 at Assi |
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| The smoke |
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| Ganga aarti |
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| Shiva aarti |
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| The final act |
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
The foundation of the Shri Kashi Vishwanath Dham Project was laid on March 8 , 2019 and was inaugurated on December 13, 2021; about a week before I went. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor now occupies approx. 5 lac square feet; a massive upgrade from the earlier 3000 square feet premises. I spoke to a few locals regarding land acquisition. From what I heard, the compensation was extremely generous and people were eager to get this handsome sum in exchange for their properties. During demolition of these properties (approx. 300), around 40 ancient temples have been found and restored. The construction of the corridor connecting it to the ghats straight to the river Ganges is underway.
Gyanvapi mosque is currently cordoned off. The matter is in the courts to assess the structure of the mosque by the Archaeological Survey of India. There are many theories on this; from Aurangzeb destroying a part of the temple complex to the Sultan of Jaunpur building it. Some say the queen of Indore - Ahilyabai Holkar built it while some day Akbar built the temple and mosque adjacent to each other in one of his experiments. The truth is buried in the past.
This was my first time to the temple. I was excited to see the new look. I took an auto from my hotel at 7:30 a.m. to the temple. My driver asked me if I was interested in waiting for 3-4 hours in a line. I replied only if there is no other option. So he took me straight to the temple trust complex.
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Mandir Trust
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The process: There was a rate card presented to me at this center. There are different rates for darshan, morning / evening aarti's, special aarti's. The charge includes a locker fee and a pandit who will guide you around. I just wanted to see the newly constructed temple complex; hence opted for the darshan. I paid INR 300 via Google Pay. I got a receipt for the same and a pandit was assigned to me. The pandit first gave me a key to my locker - he asked me to keep my shoes, belt, bag in the locker as these items are not allowed inside the temple complex. He was wearing the temple ID card. He informed me that prior to the beautification; he was a priest inside the temple complex and things have changed a bit. He escorted me straight inside; there was one security check. He performed a prayer for me and my family and tied a sacred red thread on my left wrist. Post that, he let me be there for a few minutes and escorted me back to the center. I was in and out in 15 minutes flat.
My experience: Had heard of the narrow, crumbling lanes that lead to the temple. I can imagine it would kind of take away from any spiritual emotions. But the revamped, broad granite roadways gave it a majestic feel - fit for an ancient temple of this stature.
Here are some pics that the pandit sent me later on.
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| Kashi Vishwanath Temple on Shivaratri |
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| Shivaling at the main temple sanctum |
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| Milk being offered to the shivaling |
Within Benares
I spent a few hours within the city as there are myriad ancient temples I wanted to visit. Most of them could not be photographed as they required all electronic devices to be kept outside in a locker. The most interesting was a temple dedicated to Mother India. The centerpiece is a map of India with mountains, rivers, valleys indicated by ridges, butting-out structures and carvings.
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| Bharat Mata Mandir |
Another place I would recommend is the BHU (Benares Hindu University) campus. It has a vast area and would recommend you to take a cycle-auto or a cab to cover more ground and stop as and when needed. The campus also houses the Birla temple which is pristine and well maintained.
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| Birla Temple; BHU |
Ever since our Prime Minister Narendra Modi was elected from Benares, there has been a focus on development. The main areas have received a complete facelift - with standard facades built on buildings; standardized name plates and direction indicators; broad, paved and well-lit streets. It seemed like an altogether different place from 8 years ago. Was almost unrecognizable to me. I was thrilled to see how beautiful it turned out.
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| Uniform facades; beautified streets |
Sarees
When you think of Benares, their sarees are one of the things that come to mind instantaneously. The Mughals made efforts to elevate this art of weaving and designing. Post a famine in Gujarat in the 17th century, a lot of their silk weavers migrated to Benares. Their products found buyers in the royals and the industry flourished. However with modern day machines, sarees could be woven exponentially faster - an item a weaver would take months to weave could be done by a machine in a day. To protect the weavers, a law was passed in 2009 to provide geographical indicator status to Banarasi brocades and sarees.
I picked up sarees from both Benares and Sarnath. My favorite is the one with the ghats of Benares on the border in a regal red. I found some unique colors with intricate designs and ended up buying lot many than I had planned for. I did not bargain as I found the prices to be okay and I knew that they did not get enough business during the 2 year + lockdown.
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| Banarasi sarees |
Would love your feedback / comments on this piece. Watch out for subsequent posts on the food of Benares and my day trip to Sarnath from Benares.
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